Friday, April 26, 2013
A Handy Pen Torch
This straightforward to construct “Handy pen torch” digital circuit and low part rely, makes use of two power white LEDs for lighting fixtures. Low volt (4.8V dc) supply on hand from the built in rechargeable Ni-Cd battery pack is first converted into two channel (independent) constant current supplys with the support of two items of the in demand precision adjustable shunt regulator chip LM334 (IC1 and IC2). Around 25mA at three.6 volt dc is to be had on the output of these ICs.
This regulated dc provide is used to power two power white LEDs D4 and D6. Resistors R3 and R5 restricts the output present (and hence the light output) of IC1 and IC2 circuits respectively. Besides these parts, one purple colour LED (D2) is integrated in the primary circuit which works as a battery charging provide input indicator. Resistor R1 restricts the operating current of this LED.
This regulated dc provide is used to power two power white LEDs D4 and D6. Resistors R3 and R5 restricts the output present (and hence the light output) of IC1 and IC2 circuits respectively. Besides these parts, one purple colour LED (D2) is integrated in the primary circuit which works as a battery charging provide input indicator. Resistor R1 restricts the operating current of this LED.
Pen Torch Electronic Circuit Schematic
Diode D1 works as an input polarity defend cum reverse current glide preventer. Capacitor C1 is an easy buffer for circuit stabilization. After succesful development, ideally on a small piece of basic purpose PCB, enclose the whole circuit in an acceptable and engaging pen torch cabinet. If important, drill appropriate holes in the cupboard to attatch the dc socket, on/off swap and the enter indicator and many others. In prototype,commonly available 4.8 volt/500mah Ni-Cd battery pack (for cordless phones) is used.
One very simple but dependable ac primarys powered battery charger circuit for the at hand pen torch can also be included here. Basically the pen torch circuit is a continuing current charger wired round Transistor T1 (BC636), energyed by using a 12v/350mA step down transformer and associated elementsD1, D2 and C1.
One very simple but dependable ac primarys powered battery charger circuit for the at hand pen torch can also be included here. Basically the pen torch circuit is a continuing current charger wired round Transistor T1 (BC636), energyed by using a 12v/350mA step down transformer and associated elementsD1, D2 and C1.
AC majors powered battery charger for the pen torch
Unregulated 12 volt dc available from the enter energy convereter circuit, comprising step down transformer(TRF), rectifier diodes (D1,D2) and filter capacitor (C1), is fed to T1 via a current restricting resistor R1. Grounded base PNP transistor T1 here works as a relentless present generator. With 22 ohm resistor for R1, the charging present to be had on the output of the charger is close to 50mA.
Red LED (D3) provides a set voltage reference to the base of T1, with the assist of resistor R2. (During charging course of, Diode D1 in the primary circuit stop reverse current waft from the battery pack when charging input supply is absent.) After construction of the pen torch circuit, match the assembled unit inside of a small plastic enclosure for security and comfort.
Red LED (D3) provides a set voltage reference to the base of T1, with the assist of resistor R2. (During charging course of, Diode D1 in the primary circuit stop reverse current waft from the battery pack when charging input supply is absent.) After construction of the pen torch circuit, match the assembled unit inside of a small plastic enclosure for security and comfort.
Circuit Source: DIY Electronics Projects
Friday, April 12, 2013
Rear Fog Lamp For Vintage Cars
According to current legislation in many countries, vintage cars must also be fitted with a fog lamp at the rear. In modern cars, there is a bit of circuitry associated with the fog lamp switch to prevent the fog lamp from going on when the lights are switched on if the driver forgot to switch it off after the last patch of fog cleared up. The circuit described here extends that technology back in time. The circuit is built around a dual JK flip-flop (type 4027). T3 acts as an emitter follower, and it only supplies power to the circuit when the lights are switched on.
For safety reasons, the supply voltage is tapped off from the number plate lamp (L2), because it is on even if you accidentally drive with only the parking lights on. The wire that leads to the number plate lamp usually originates at the fuse box. As the states of the outputs of IC1a and IC1b are arbitrary when power is switched on, the reset inputs are briefly set high by the combination of C1, R1 and T1 when the lights are switched on (ignition switch on). That causes both Q outputs (pins 1 and 15) to go low. IC1a and IC1b are wired in toggle mode (J and K high).
The Set inputs are tied to ground (inactive). The driver uses pushbutton switch S1 to generate a clock pulse that causes the outputs of the flip-flops to toggle. The debouncing circuit formed by C2, R4 and T2 is essential for obtaining a clean clock pulse, and thus for reliable operation of the circuit. C1 and C2 should preferably be tantalum capacitors. The Q output of IC1b directly drives LED D1 (a low-current type, and yellow according to the regulations). The Q output of IC1a energises relay Re1 via T4 and thus applies power to the rear fog lamp L1.
Circuit diagram:
Rear Fog Lamp Circuit Diagram For Vintage Cars
Free-wheeling diode D2 protects T4 against inductive voltage spikes that occur when the relay is de-energised. In older-model cars, the charging voltage of the generator or alternator is governed by a mechanical voltage regulator. These regulators are less reliable than the electronic versions used in modern cars. For that reason, a Zener diode voltage-limiter circuit (D3 and R9) is included to keep the voltage at the emitter of T3 below 15 V and thus prevent the 4027 from being destroyed by an excessively high voltage.
The supply voltage for the circuit is tapped off from the fuse box. An accessory terminal is usually present there. Check to make sure it is fed from the ignition switch. The pushbutton switch must be a momentary-contact type (not a latching type). Ensure that the pushbutton and LED have a good ground connection. Fit the LED close to the button.
The following ‘Bosch codes’ are used in the schematic:
- 15 = +12 V from ignition switch
- 58K = number plate lamp
- 86 = relay coil power (+) IN
- 85 = relay coil power OUT
- 30 = relay contact (+) IN
- 87 = relay contact OUT
Author: Eric Vanderseypen - Copyright: Elektor Electronics Magazine
Wednesday, April 10, 2013
Sub Woofer and Controller Rise
Sub woofers are popular, with home theater being of the driving forces. However, a nice sub adds considerably to normal hi-fi program material, & so if it is predictable & has nice response characteristics.
all of sub woofers use a immense speaker driver in a immense box, with tuning vents & all the difficulties (& vagaries) that conventional operation entails. By conventional, I mean that the speaker & cabinet are operated as a resonant technique, using the Thistle-Small parameters to get a box which will (if everything works as it ought to) provide excellent performance.
all of sub woofers use a immense speaker driver in a immense box, with tuning vents & all the difficulties (& vagaries) that conventional operation entails. By conventional, I mean that the speaker & cabinet are operated as a resonant technique, using the Thistle-Small parameters to get a box which will (if everything works as it ought to) provide excellent performance.
Completed Prototype
A fast word is warranted here, to let you decide if the speaker you have will actually work in a little sealed enclosure. The EAS principle will permit any driver to extend to twenty Hz or even lower. A lovely fast check is to stick the speaker in a box, and drive it to 100W or so at twenty Hz - you ought to see lots of cone movement, a few things will rattle, but you should not actually listen to a tone. A "bad" speaker will generate 60 Hz (third harmonic) - in the event you dont listen to anything, the speaker will work in an equalized sub.
If a tone is audible, or the speaker shows any signs of distress (such as the cone breaking up with appropriate terrible noises), then the driver cannot be used in this manner. Either discover a different driver, or use a vented enclosure.
Before you can build your own EAS box, you will require to pick an appropriate driver, using the above as a guide. Cone tour will be high at the lowest frequencies, so the speaker needs to be able to high power, lovely tour, & of reasonable size (there is no substitute for cone area for moving air at low frequencies). I am using a 380mm (15") driver, but smaller drivers (say 300mm - 12") can be used, or even a bigger number of smaller drivers. I have also had excellent results with a single 300mm driver, which has lower sensitivity (as would expect) but is perfectly adequate for normal usage.
The check methods I used are applicable to any combination, but in general I recommend either a single giant driver or a pair of (say) 300mm units. The next hurdle is the amplifier needed to drive the speaker. This is not trivial. If the selected driver has a sensitivity of 93dB / W @ one metre, then you can safely assume that the efficiency will be less than this below resonance, by a factor of possibly 6dB or more. In case you are used to driving a sub with 100W, this means that you have increased the power to 400W - although this is an over-simplification.
If they are to operate the sub from 60Hz (my aim from the outset), they will increase the power by 12dB for each octave, so if 20W is necessary at 60Hz, then at 30Hz this has increased to 320W, & at 15Hz, you will require over 5kW.
Fortunately, the reality is a tiny different, & 400W or so will be over sufficient for a powerful process, due chiefly to the fact that the energy content in the low bass region is not normally all that great. (Although some program material may have high energy content, in general this is not the case). The EAS process augments the existing process, which is allowed to roll off naturally - contrast this with the normal case, where a crossover is used to separate the low bass from the main process, so existing speaker capability is lost.
The box I built is made from 25mm (1") MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard), & filled with fiberglass. Apart from the fact that it is very heavy (which is a lovely thing, because it desires to walk with low frequencies), the cabinet is acoustically dead, with no resonances in the low frequencies at all ( unlike my house & furniture, dammit !). The woofer is recessed in to the baffle, & sealed with weather sealing foam. When attaching the speaker, do NOT use wood screws, or any other screw in to the MDF. I used "Tee" nuts. I have no idea what they are called elsewhere in the world, but they look like this
TEE NUT
The middle is tapped, and accepts a metal thread screw, and the small spikes mean that you must drill a hole, and hammer in the Tee nut. In case you use a screw through the hole and screwed lightly in to the Tee nut, you can hold it in place as you bash away at it, and can also see that it is straight when you are done. make sure that the finish of the screw doesnt stick out the finish, or you will seldom remove it again after the hammering! I recommend that you lock the tee nut in to place with some construction adhesive (dont get any in the threaded section) so they dont fall out while you are installing the speaker.
The EAS Controller
The controller is (actually very) simple, & the circuit is shown in Figure one. An input buffer ensures that the input impedance of the source does not affect the integrator performance, & allows summing of left & right channels without any crosstalk. The output provides a phase reversal switch, so that the sub can be properly phased to the remainder of the process. If the mid-bass disappears as you advance the level control, then the phase is wrong, so switch to the opposite position.
The controller is (actually very) simple, & the circuit is shown in Figure one. An input buffer ensures that the input impedance of the source does not affect the integrator performance, & allows summing of left & right channels without any crosstalk. The output provides a phase reversal switch, so that the sub can be properly phased to the remainder of the process. If the mid-bass disappears as you advance the level control, then the phase is wrong, so switch to the opposite position.
Figure 1 - The Original EAS Filter / Controller
It turns out that the controller can be simplified, but there is no point. While the dual pot appeared like a lovely suggestion when I built my unit, it actually only changes the gain. Now, having experimented some more, this is an excellent thing, since it means that the level through the controller can be set to make positive that there is no distortion - there can be a immense amount of gain at low frequencies, & if the gain is high, distortion is assured!
The integrators (U1B & U2A) include shelving resistors (R6 & R9), & the capacitor / resistor networks (C1-R4, C3-R7) be positive that signals below 20Hz are attenuated. In case you dont require to go that low, then the worth of the caps (or the resistors R4 & R7) can be reduced. I used four.7uF caps, & these are non-polarized electrolytic - a high value was needed to keep the impedance low to the integrators. I originally included the dual pot (VR1) to permit the upper frequency roll off to be set - however it does no such thing (as described above). The final output level is set with VR2, which may be left out if your power amp has a level control.
The integrators (U1B & U2A) include shelving resistors (R6 & R9), & the capacitor / resistor networks (C1-R4, C3-R7) be positive that signals below 20Hz are attenuated. In case you dont require to go that low, then the worth of the caps (or the resistors R4 & R7) can be reduced. I used four.7uF caps, & these are non-polarized electrolytic - a high value was needed to keep the impedance low to the integrators. I originally included the dual pot (VR1) to permit the upper frequency roll off to be set - however it does no such thing (as described above). The final output level is set with VR2, which may be left out if your power amp has a level control.
It is OK to substitute different op amps, but there is tiny reason to do so. Any substitution tool ought to be a FET input op amp, or DC offset may be an issue. Do not be tempted to make use of a DC coupled amp. If the you are planning to make use of is DC coupled, the input ought to be isolated with a capacitor. Pick a value to give a -3dB frequency of about 10Hz, as this will have tiny effect on the low frequency response, but will help to attenuate the subsonic frequencies.
The unity gain range (using a 20k pot as shown) is from 53Hz to 159Hz. This ought to be sufficient for most systems, but if desired, the resistors (R5 & R8) can be increased in value to 22k, or you can select a bigger value pot. Using 22k resistors & the 20k pot will give a range from 36Hz to 72Hz.
The unity gain range (using a 20k pot as shown) is from 53Hz to 159Hz. This ought to be sufficient for most systems, but if desired, the resistors (R5 & R8) can be increased in value to 22k, or you can select a bigger value pot. Using 22k resistors & the 20k pot will give a range from 36Hz to 72Hz.
To permit lower frequencies, you can increase the 100k shelving resistors (R6 and R9) to 220k, and increase the high pass capacitors (four.7uF) with 10uF (or R4 & R7 may be increased - a maximum of four.7k is recommended). This will give a turnover frequency of around 8Hz, but expect to make use of much more power, as there will likely be significant sub-sonic energy that will generate huge cone excursions with no audible benefit.
The input must be a standard full range (or for a stampeded method, the whole low frequency signal). Do not use a crossover or other filter before the EAS controller. For final modification, and to integrate the method in to your listening room, I recommend the constant-Q equalizer. The final result using this is extraordinarily nice - I have flat in-room response to 20Hz!
The input must be a standard full range (or for a stampeded method, the whole low frequency signal). Do not use a crossover or other filter before the EAS controller. For final modification, and to integrate the method in to your listening room, I recommend the constant-Q equalizer. The final result using this is extraordinarily nice - I have flat in-room response to 20Hz!
For the power supply, use the in anything else will provide +/-15V at a few Milli amps. My supply is not even regulated, & the whole method is as close to noiseless as you will listen to (or not listen to). Construction is not critical - I built mine on a piece of Overboard (perforated prototype board), & managed to fit everything (including the power supply rectifier & filter) on a piece about 100 x 40 millimeters with room to spare.
The EAS method is surprisingly simple to set up with no instrumentation. Of coursework in case you have an SPL meter & oscillator you can also confirm the settings with measurements. Keep in mind that the room acoustics will play havoc with the results, so unless you require to drag the whole method outside, setting by ear might be the simplest. Even in case you did get it exactly right in an anechoic surroundings, this would alter one time it was in your listening room anyway.
It takes a small experimentation to get right, but is surprisingly simple to do. When properly set, a check track (or bass guitar) ought to be smooth from the highest bass note to the lowest, with no gross peaks or dips. Some are inevitable because of room resonances & the like, but you will discover a setting that sounds "right" with small difficulty.
The EAS method is surprisingly simple to set up with no instrumentation. Of coursework in case you have an SPL meter & oscillator you can also confirm the settings with measurements. Keep in mind that the room acoustics will play havoc with the results, so unless you require to drag the whole method outside, setting by ear might be the simplest. Even in case you did get it exactly right in an anechoic surroundings, this would alter one time it was in your listening room anyway.
It takes a small experimentation to get right, but is surprisingly simple to do. When properly set, a check track (or bass guitar) ought to be smooth from the highest bass note to the lowest, with no gross peaks or dips. Some are inevitable because of room resonances & the like, but you will discover a setting that sounds "right" with small difficulty.
Performance Of My Prototype
I measured 80dB SPL at one meter in my workshop (sub-woofer perched on a chair in more or less the middle of the space) with at 25Hz & 70W. This improved dramatically when the unit was installed in the listening room, but as I said earlier, there is usually not a lot recorded below around 35Hz. The longest pipe on the organ is usually about 16Hz, but larger pipes still may be used. It was found necessary to cease group of diapasons (able to 8Hz) in the famous Sydney Town Hall organ because when they were used, the very low frequency caused building destroy.
I measured 80dB SPL at one meter in my workshop (sub-woofer perched on a chair in more or less the middle of the space) with at 25Hz & 70W. This improved dramatically when the unit was installed in the listening room, but as I said earlier, there is usually not a lot recorded below around 35Hz. The longest pipe on the organ is usually about 16Hz, but larger pipes still may be used. It was found necessary to cease group of diapasons (able to 8Hz) in the famous Sydney Town Hall organ because when they were used, the very low frequency caused building destroy.
A couple of orchestral recordings revealed traffic (or perhaps underground railway) rumble that I was unaware of before (however this was before it was set correctly, and the bass was a tad louder than needed). One time set up properly, its presence is unobtrusive - except I now have about and a half octaves of additional bottom finish.
I finally decided on a 20Hz maximum frequency (-3dB), and this is reflected in the part values shown in Figure one. The actual roll-over frequency is 16.5Hz, after which the output is attenuated at about 12dB / octave (see Figure two). Without the roll off capacitors, the gain would be 20dB at 20Hz. Unity gain frequencies are about 4Hz and 63Hz with the 20k pot(s) centered.
Figure 2 - Frequency Response of EAS Controller
awesome Australian readers may recognize the woofer brand in the picture (Figure three) of my done unit. The compact size of the box can be seen from the fact that there is tiny spacing around the speaker itself, and most of what is there is the top and sides - I used 25mm MDF, so it makes the outside of the box a bit bigger than the inside. Outside dimensions are 470W x 450H x 410D (18 1/2"W x 17 1/2"H x 16"D), which gives a capacity of 60 liters (about two.1 ft³ - excluding the internal space occupied by the speaker. I think you would agree that this is a small box indeed for a 380mm loudspeaker that performs down to 15Hz.
Figure 3 - Photo of Completed EAS Cabinet
Overall, I would must say that I doubt that any conventional design would be as compact, or would have such clarity & solidarity. Being a sealed box, there is not of the "waffle" that ported designs often give, & the speaker is protected against excessive tour by the air pressure in the box itself (below the cutoff frequency, anyway).
The bottom finish in my technique is now staggering. It is rock solid, & absolutely thunders when called on. The 400W amp is over sufficient for the job, thinking about its to keep up with a biamped main technique able to high SPL (up to 120dB at my listening position). In fact a fast check indicates that 200W would have been (but . better to have it & not require it than require it & not have it).
The fact that the EAS design augments the existing speakers than taking over from them with a crossover goes a long way towards ensuring the power requirements do not get out of hand. As an added benefit, I have found that I get the same aural sensation at much lower SPLs - I can listen happily at 90dB, but it sounds much louder. I may even listen to the phone ring while listening now !
All in all, I feel it is unlikely that anything other than an isobaric enclosure could give the same performance for a box size even close to the EAS box,& even then would be limited to about 35Hz. Added to this is the unpredictable combined response of the main speakers and the sub, which is not an Problem with this design. With an EAS system, more power is necessary than a standard design, but for plenty of people, power is less costly than space.
Monday, April 8, 2013
Low Voltage Step Down Converter
Sometimes you have a situation where you have a 5-V supply voltage but part of the circuit needs a lower supply voltage. A voltage regulator from the Texas Instruments TPS62000 family [1] is a good choice for this if the current consumption is less than 600 mA.
The essential advantages are:
You can thus use this device to build a very compact, highly efficient voltage converter. A sample layout generated by the author is available as a file on the Elektor website. The TSOP62000 provides an internal reference potential of 0.45 V, which can be used to set the output voltage in the range of 0.5 V to 5 V by means of resistors R2 and R3. The formula for this is: Vout = 0.45 V + (0.45 V) × (R2 / R3) For relatively low voltages, the value of inductor L1 should be 10 µH, but a value of 22 µH is better if the output voltage is 3.3 V or more. The input voltage can be anywhere in the range of 2 V to 5.5 V, and of course it has to be higher than the desired output voltage. The output voltage is 3.3 V with the indicated component values and an input voltage of 5 V. If you want to reduce the component count even further, you can use a member of the family with a fixed output voltage. The available voltages are 0.9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.5, 1.8, 1.9, 2.5, and 3.3 V. With this approach you can omit R2, R3 and C3, so the output can be connected directly to pin 5.
Read More..
The essential advantages are:
- small (but still manually solderable) SMD package;
- high operating frequency (750 kHz) => small external inductor;
- integrated power MOSFETs => high efficiency (up to 95 %);
- no external switching diode necessary.
Low Voltage Step-Down Converter Circuit Diagram
You can thus use this device to build a very compact, highly efficient voltage converter. A sample layout generated by the author is available as a file on the Elektor website. The TSOP62000 provides an internal reference potential of 0.45 V, which can be used to set the output voltage in the range of 0.5 V to 5 V by means of resistors R2 and R3. The formula for this is: Vout = 0.45 V + (0.45 V) × (R2 / R3) For relatively low voltages, the value of inductor L1 should be 10 µH, but a value of 22 µH is better if the output voltage is 3.3 V or more. The input voltage can be anywhere in the range of 2 V to 5.5 V, and of course it has to be higher than the desired output voltage. The output voltage is 3.3 V with the indicated component values and an input voltage of 5 V. If you want to reduce the component count even further, you can use a member of the family with a fixed output voltage. The available voltages are 0.9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.5, 1.8, 1.9, 2.5, and 3.3 V. With this approach you can omit R2, R3 and C3, so the output can be connected directly to pin 5.
Saturday, April 6, 2013
Trailer Wiring Diagram Connectors Pinoutcircuit Schematic
Trailer Light Wiring Typical Trailer Light Wiring Diagram.
Trailer Wiring Electrical Connections Are Used On Car Boat And.
Typical 7 Way Trailer Wiring Diagram Circuit Schematic.
Trailer Wiring Diagrams Johnson Trailer Sales Colfax Wisconsin.
Way Trailer Wiring Diagram And Connectors Pinout Circuit Schematic.
Post It But I Ll Try To Diagram It Here.
Pj Trailers Plug Diagram.
Troubleshooting Trailer Wiring.
Trailer Wiring Diagrams Johnson Trailer Sales Colfax Wisconsin.
This Allows You To Connect Up The Wiring To Tow A Caravan Or Trailer.
Thursday, April 4, 2013
A 12V Car Charger For ASUS Eee Notebook
The ASUS Eee is a fantastic ultra-portable notebook with almost everything required for geeks (and nothing that isn’t). Plus it features fantastic build quality and is very well priced. If you live in New Zealand you can get them from DSE; at the time of writing they are the exclusive supplier. I worked out it’s the same cost as importing one once you include all the duties and tax, plus you get the advantage of a proper NZ-style mains charger. Anyway, being so small I thought it would be nice to be able to carry this around in the car. Unfortunately I couldn’t find a car charger available anywhere at the time so I decided to tackle the problem myself. As a bonus this provides an opportunity for an external high-capacity battery.
Commercial Equivalent:
I thought at this stage it would be worth noting that a commercial car charger is now available for less than it cost me to build this from Expansys and is available in most countries (select your location on their site). It outputs 9.5v from 10-18v in at up to 2.5A. I’d actually recommend it over the design here is it seems to perform better at lower voltages (that one works down to 10V). However I have kept this page up as a reference for those who enjoy tinkering.
Design:
The charger included with the Eee is rated at 9.5v, 2.315A. There isn’t a fixed voltage regulator available for this exact voltage, so the circuit needed to be designed around an adjustable regulator. I decided to design the charger around the LM2576 “Simple Switcher” IC from National Semiconductor. There are tons of ICs like this available, many of which are a bit more efficient, however I selected this one because it is readily available and relatively cheap. It also has a lower drop-out voltage (~2V) than many other chips I looked at which is important when powering the device from a car or 12v SLA battery.
This circuit could have used a standard three pin regulator IC such as the LM317, however most types require an external transistor when handling so much current and not to mention the fact that they are very inefficient; they draw the same amount of current from the input as the load and the difference in power is dissipated as heat. The main problem with using the LM2576 is the fact it needs quite a large inductor due to its somewhat low switching frequency. The inductor I used is made by Pulse Engineering, part number PE92108KNL. I’d prefer a smaller one, however I couldn’t find one capable of supplying the required current that I could purchase in single units. Besides the PE92108KNL is apparently designed specifically to work with the LM257x series.
The circuit also includes a low voltage cut-out based on a 9.1v Zener diode and BC337 transistor that will shut down the regulator if the input voltage is below 11.5V. This prevents unstable operation of the regulator at lower input voltages, and also helps prevent accidental flattening of the supply battery. Substituting this transistor for similar type may affect the cut-out voltage; the Vbe of the transistor should be 1.2v.All of the components used should be pretty readily available in most areas. I got everything from Farnell. Jaycar also sells everything except the inductor. Make sure you specify high temperature, low ESR capacitors as these help result in more stable operation and better efficiency of the charger.
Unfortunately the end result is a charger that is slightly bulkier than I would really like. I attempted to fit this inside an old mobile phone charger case so the whole thing could hang out of the cigarette lighter, however I ran into trouble making the circuit stable enough and dissipating all the heat. Due to the high current involved compared to a mobile phone charger the components are much bulkier so it’s pretty tricky to get all to fit! If I do get it finished I’ll add an update.
Parts List:- 2x 10k resistor (R1 & R4)
- 2x 22k resistor (R2 & R3)
- 1x 1.5k resistor (R5)
- 1x 120μF 25v electrolytic capacitor (C1)
- 1x 2200μF 16v electrolytic capacitor (C2)
- 1x 1N5822 Schottky diode (or equivalent)
- 1x 9.1v 0.5W Zener diode
- 1x BC337 NPN transistor
- 1x LM2576T-ADJ IC
- 1x 100uH, 3A inductor (e.g. Pulse PE92108KNL)
- 25°C/W or better minature heatsink (e.g. Thermalloy 6073)
- Cigarette lighter plug with 3A fuse and 2.1mm DC plug (e.g. DSE P1692)
- 2.1mm DC chassis mount socket
- 1.7mm x 4.75mm (ID x OD) DC plug and cable
- Small plastic enclosure
Make yourself a PCB using the template below (600dpi). I simply laser print (or photocopy) the design onto OHP transparency sheet and then transfer the toner onto a blank PCB using a standard clothes iron. Any missing spots can be touched up with a permanent marker before etching. This is quick, usually results in pretty tidy boards and hardly costs a thing. There is a tutorial on a variation of this method at http://max8888.orcon.net.nz/pcbs.htm.
Install the components on the PCB and triple check the layout before soldering. It is much easier to start with the low profile components such as resistors and diodes, then install the larger components after-wards. Don’t forget the wire link; this is shows as a red line on the layout guide above. Remember to smear a small amount of heatsink compound on the regulator tab before mounting the heatsink.
For a case I used a small plastic enclosure from DSE, part H2840, as it was all the local store had in stock that was remotely suitable. The PCB is designed to fit into this particular case, however any small box should be suitable. If you have a dead laptop charger lying about it might be worth ripping the guts out of that and salvaging the case. If your enclosure is different you may need to modify the design to suit, so I have provided the schematic and PCB design files for download. They were created using Eagle. The Eee uses a standard 1.7mm DC power connector with a positive tip.
Connect the circuit to a 12v supply. If you use a car or lead acid battery ensure you have a 3A fuse fitted in line with the circuit before connecting it, just in case. Use your multimeter to check that the circuit outputs about 9.45v with no load. Connect a 12V, 21W lamp (e.g. old brake lamp from a car) or similar load across the output and check that the voltage doesn’t vary much. You should now be able to connect your Eee. The circuit design should be good for up to 2.5A, so there is plenty of margin for the Eee to fully function and charge its own battery off this supply.
SLA Battery Carry-bag:
Jaycar have a really cool carry bag with a shoulder strap designed to perfectly fit a 12v 7AH sealed lead acid battery. The bag features a fused cigarette lighter socket and is the perfect compliment to this charger. It works well with the Eee and provides hours of extra use. The shoulder strap means it’s not too bothersome to carry about and the charger circuit itself zips up neatly inside the bag. The under-voltage cut-off means the battery will never run completely flat, and the Eee will simply cut over to its internal battery once the SLA runs out. I got my SLA battery from Rexel as they are much cheaper (approx NZ$18 including GST last time I bought one) and they don’t sit as long on the shelf as many other suppliers.
Disclaimer:
This circuit is intended for people who have had experience in constructing electronic projects before. The circuit design and build process are provided simply as a reference for other people to use and I take no responsibility for how they are used. If you proceed with building and/or using this design you do so entirely at your own risk. You are free to use the content on this page as you wish, however I do ask that you include a link or reference back to this page if you distribute or publish any of the content to others.
Source: Marlborough Wi-Fi
Tuesday, April 2, 2013
Simple Inverter with Two Transistors
The series below is a simple inverter circuit that will change the voltage of 12v dc to 220v ac, with use drive transistor 32 as its tip.
Inverter circuit is very simple and easy to assemble and is perfect for just starting to learn to assemble electronic circuits, you can use the transformer 2A to produce about 20 watts output. Do not forget to install coolers in its transistors. good luck.
Inverter circuit is very simple and easy to assemble and is perfect for just starting to learn to assemble electronic circuits, you can use the transformer 2A to produce about 20 watts output. Do not forget to install coolers in its transistors. good luck.
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